Girder front end bicycle11/6/2022 ![]() ![]() Everything is custom hand built by me with the exception of the tank, pegs, shocks and wheels/tires. The end result is a drop-seat rigid with 4 1/2 inches ground clearance, banana girder front-end, internal twist throttle, modified side jockey shift, Kick-only, HHB PMA and Reg/Rec, PAMCO with a Joe Wiseguy 2 ointo 1 intake running a Harleyt 40mm CV carb. I started on this project one year ago knowing that with the long rainy winters in the Pacific Northwest I should be able to complete it in time to ride in the largest bike event here in the north west.The Oyster Run. Just like Hurst Airheart brakes you can buy the parts for them and some Harleys (Like a fairbanks Morse maggie) at a farm and tractor store.Hello All.Just wanted to share the completed bike. When people made this stuff, generally they pick something right out of a wholesaler catalog for componenets. A front end carries its weight differently than a rear shock, So you are correct in that your shock probably does not support a lot of weight so a safe bet would be small dirt bikes or mini bikes. To source one new, once you have the spring rates & measurements figured out as well as shock body dimensions, Jobber or wholesalers have catalogs that detail all these specs and just a matter of finding something close to what you want. #Girder front end bicycle free#(Easy to slip or launch a spring so some skill and caution needed) But Spring OD/ID, dia, free length and then compress 1 inch or whatever amount works at a defined point while looking at how many pounds to compress it. In a pinch, you can test the springs on a bathroom scale and tape measure. If you knew what you wanted, I might have something but I will not make a career out of it in research and testing, its on my to-do list testing springs and labeling them. Some of the springs are Tiumph/BSA external fork springs as its hard to tell the difference by looking, But I got a crap ton of this stuff. #Girder front end bicycle full#I have 8 milk crates full of used shocks, springs and bodys, and chrome and unchromed springs. When I order new shocks and generally thats for vintage restorations, but I do have some late model sport bikes ( Buell & Ducati) you spec the application and weights, free length eye to eye and shrouded, unshrouded etc etc. Might be others but thats what I recall off the top of my head. There is several methods but generally its figured how many pounds to compress 1 inch and how many to coil bind. If you feel your spring is too stiff or soft, its going to be hard to spec what you want & need without at least some form of measurement. Seen a few commercial ones for sale but either no money at the time or too expensive but not hard to make a test station. Been on my to-do list for a long time to make one. Springs are a different story, In theory, you can calculate some specs on wire dia and coil length, but in reality the only test is a compressor gauge. But seems to me you SHOULD be able to find a shock body of similar dimensions and then put your spring back on that. Depending on what oil is used might help change things. Some shocks can be rebuilt, new seals, and clean it out and fresh oil. If you take apart the shock, the damper assy theres a few tests you can do, but its obvious generally if a shock is working or not, then there is some have different damper rates and in at least one picture it LOOKS like there is a 3 step adjuster? What happens when the spring is removed and you try it in each of the settings? Springers look cool but are usually heavier than stock forks and generally ride like SH*T, So the shock sure helps. ![]() Girders and springers with an actual Shock are a nice setup, better than the uncontrolled pogo-ing on undamped forks. ![]()
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